Unfinished business with a striking end...
every suit has a story.
In 2012, a customer walked into our store to have a suit made. Having chosen his fabric, he was attended by our master tailor who noted the article number down.
Unbeknown to the master, he had actually written the incorrect number, which came to light when the client visited us for his first fitting. At this moment, we decided it was best to carry out the fitting and then have the alterations removed on the actual chosen fabric.
This left us with an unfinished suit, and an opportunity to spark my creative side.
A fact to note however - the suit was abandoned and left in the dust till it was awoken in 2015.
Now we had another problem. The raw material required to finish the suit couldn't be found and the fabric was never repeated in our stock. I wasn't just going to let that suit go into the bin, so I came up with an idea.
As the customer who the suit belonged to was much bigger in size, some bits of raw material furnished after altering the suit to my body. It was enough to create the single bone welt pockets in the front as well the double bone back pocket of the trousers. Here's a list of all the parts that still required the suit raw material -
- The lapels (the panel begins from the inside of the suit)
- The top collar (the panel that goes around your neck)
- The waist belt of the trousers
- and it's loops.
- The inside fabric piece of the side pockets
- The inside fabric piece of the back pockets
I found the perfect shade of blue that would compliment the grey of the suit and used it to replace the missing suit raw material.
I also cut a panel under the lapel so that the front and the back of the lapel would be exactly the same. The buttons used were navy blue to co-incide with the highlights. All in all it was starting to come together and I felt content.
The results were unexpectedly striking! Especially the highlights inside the pockets and the waist belt of the trousers. It always looks as if I have a belt on from far!
The decision to have the trouser pockets stitched as side pockets rather than cross pockets worked well considering the amount of blue show from inside was very minimal in this case.
The suit was finally worn in September, 2015 at the launch night of Ziya @ Pacha Dubai. It can be easily paired with formal shirts or t-shirts (polo and round neck).
Here are some details of the suit that I liked -
- created using a Drago Super 130s Wool & Cashmere, Heather Grey
- a one button cut with a slim notch lapel
- slanted single bone welt pockets
- the suit jacket was generally a slim fit but not super slim
- working buttonholes on the cuff that were handmade
- the panels cut for the lapel
- the waist belt and side pockets on the trousers including the contrast
- the turn up cuffs on the trousers
Here are some details of the suit that I didn't like -
- a fully fused suit with minimal handwork
- the fitting of the sleeves doesn't feel right
- the length of sleeves
- no top wallet on the suit jacket
- finishing of the button holes.
- details on the inside of the suit!
Edit 31/07 :
Soon after my blog post, one of the images was instantly recognised on the Instagram page of Esquire Middle East, which was a pleasant surprise!