Don't blame the tailor if you're going to hand it in late.

every suit has a story.

EVERY.

 

The end of 2015 saw us creating a full canvassed bespoke 3 piece suit for the deputy editor for Ahlan! magazine. It was a suit to remember; a timeless piece of art created well ahead of time. Made out of English Super 160s Wool & Cashmere in a light camel colour Prince of Wales check, we did roughly about 4 fittings before we delivered it.

JJ had planned to wear this suit for the 2015 edition of the Ahlan! Hot 100 Clubs & Bars party hosted at the Cove Beach, JBH and Provocateur Dubai.

I was invited too except I was not ready for it, again.

I had 48 hours to create a masterpiece. A suit that would be the pillar of my confidence and the basis of my conversations.

Suit style.jpg

It didn't take me long to figure out where to start on the design. My mind almost instantly went to the particular style that I carried off for that entire year. A style that changed the way people looked at me. It gave me recognition that I had never received in the years that I had worked before.

What was this style? It was a single button waistcoat with a low neckline drop. The front of the waistcoat had lapel panels cut in a contrast colour that would match the back of the waistcoat which was also made out of the suiting material and not the usual silk linings. The style of the waistcoat was such that it could be paired with anything. I wore it with -

  • contrasted jeans 👖 and a tee shirt 👕
  • contrasted trousers and a tee shirt or shirt
  • matching formal trousers and a shirt 👔

Now it was time to create the season finale. It was the perfect time to put an end to a style that had supported me for a whole year.

I picked a Super 130s Wool & Cashmere Navy blue Prince of Wales check which had a lighter shade of blue windowpane pattern. Amazingly enough, these cannot be seen from afar but only when you are in close proximity.

The basic framework of the suit jacket pattern would stay the same as the waistcoat. Maintaining the front lapel panels, we added a two button closure and a top collar; this and the lapel panels both in black added a subtle, sophisticated contrast. For the trousers, I created a black waist belt to match the suit jacket. It had no belt loops, only elastic side adjustments with buttons, as you occasionally see in Tuxedo suit trousers.

The first fitting took place in the evening on the same day with most of the effort spent in carving and shaping the top collar to get the precise roundness and height. Otherwise, the fitting in general for both the jacket and trouser was really good!

suit sleeve buttonhole

The next morning (day of the event) amidst all the bustle, two of the selected tailors simultaneously started working on my suit jacket. Without such a decision it would be considered impossible to turn around a suit jacket in 6-7 hours. What startled me was, because I had not been paying attention to the other tailor making my trousers, he only started working on it that afternoon.

Now, in my head I was expecting to wear the full suit by 7pm and be at the door ready to leave.

As I arrived at 6:45pm back to the office that evening I noticed my trousers still not completed. I was fuming, I was anxious and I was upset. So upset that I threw the trousers and called off the event. A decision I regret till today. I wouldn't mind not going to the event, but it was disrespecting an individual's hard work that hurt me.

These tailors' are a wonder I tell you.

full suit

After my man fit was over, he managed to put the trouser together in less than an hour and off I was. Albeit slightly late but still in good time.

The suit in general was still a magnificent turn out.

Here are some details of the suit that I liked - 

  • created using a Super 130s Wool & Cashmere, Navy Blue Princes of Wales Check
  • a two button cut with a reverse notch lapel
  • standing top collar.
  • contrast top wallet for a younger feel
  • a slim fitted short cut jacket with ankle length trousers
  • working buttonholes on the cuff that were handmade
    • last button hole in red
  • the panels cut for the lapel
  • contrasted waist belt on the trousers with elastic side adjustments.

Here are some details of the suit that I didn't like -

  • a fully fused suit jacket to accommodate the speedy request.
  • finishing of the trouser made in a rush
    • side pockets + back pocket
tailored suit

Overall, I was definitely pleased with the results but I must tell you, I am not a big fan of rushed jobs especially when it comes to creating a suit. I also realised that you can't blame the tailors if you are going to hand it in late. These are handmade creations, and anything that is handmade always takes times.

suit back