The Gifted Suit.
every suit has a story.
Consider this as my first ever Super 160s suit and perhaps the only suit that had the privilege of being created over a period of 20 days.
I was gifted a Charles Clayton fabric by my mentor and good friend (at university) after his short visit to Dubai.
In August, 2015, the ideal opportunity knocked on the door to bring out this fabric that had been lying with me for 2 years. The first magazine article was being written about me in Ahlan! and I was to have a photoshoot in the ITP office.
JJ, the deputy editor of Ahlan! Online at the time was subsequently reviewing our craftsmanship by tailoring a full canvassed 3 piece suit for himself and it was around this time that I started the work on my suit too.
To this day, I haven’t forgotten the feeling of trying on that Super 160s suit for the first time. It was remarkable.
To the readers unaware of the terminology: A “Super” count commercially describes the finesse of the wool fibre which comes from measuring the diameter of a wool fibre in microns. An easy comparison would be a strand of hair which measures on an average between 40-70 microns; compared to a Super 160s wool fibre which is 15.75 microns.
There is a reason so much emphasis is put on the superfine count. It is because, after Super 140s-150s the choice is purely based on feel and comfort, and only upon examining closely would you be able to tell the difference. A suit with a high superfine count is like silk draped over an unveiled car; the fabric is frictionless.
This fitting was important to me particularly because it was also the first time I was trying on a double breasted suit. The trends had already paved the way and it was about time I had one made. I have two words for the review - power statement.
The real difference as compared to a single-breasted jacket is the sophisticated feel. There are certain elements within the jacket that I feel make it so profound in it’s appeal and look.
the overlapping front panels creates the sophistication.
the placement of the 6 buttons (sometimes 4) on the front.
this helps in creating a wider or narrow body structure.
the lapel size (usually is quite a wide peak style - do not compare to my photos!)
The suit, if I remember correctly required 2 full fittings. The suit jacket required a small amount of tapering on the sides and the sleeves had to be shortened. The trouser on the other hand were cut differently. I opted for ankle length trousers with a bottom fold. What was unique to the trouser was the upper half which had double-angled welt pockets and two box pleats. It really made the entire difference in the look of the trouser.
Also considering this was a Super 160s material and my first double-breast, I simply added a contrasted fabric to the top wallet for maximum impact.
The results spoke for itself.
Here are some details of the suit that I liked -
created using a Super 160s Wool & Cashmere, Charcoal Grey by Charles Clayton
a 6 button double-breasted jacket
slim fitted with a modern short length
top wallet fabric detail
working buttonholes on the cuff that were handmade
ankle length trousers with a bottom fold
double-angled welt pockets and box pleats
Here are some details of the suit that I didn't like -
size of the lapel was a point I didn't consider at all whilst the suit was being constructed. It certainly had slipped my mind - a decision I now regret.